Originally published in the Taste Our Love for the Land cookbook, published 2015.
Every other year when I was young, my parents would take us on a special summer vacation to Wailuku, Maui, where my grandparents owned Yamaguchi Store on Lower Main. It was a great time for us kids, as we ran around the store taking slices of dried abalone off the racks when my grandpa wasn’t looking. I can still remember hiding in the yard, opening the plastic bag and smelling that small piece of abalone. For hours, I would slowly chew on and savor the abalone, hoping my grandpa wouldn’t catch me.
When I lived in New York and Los Angeles, I would often reminisce about those times and knew that one day I‘d return to Hawaii. That time came in 1988 when I opened the first Roy’s in Hawaii Kai. When we opened, it was a feeling I had never had before—I felt like I’d finally come home.
“Sustainability is about our economy, our educational system, our culture and our people.”
Chef Roy Yamaguchi: “I felt like I’d finally come home.” Photos: courtesy of Roy Yamaguchi/“Taste Our Love for the Land,” 2015
Main Dish
Over the years, I have had the great fortune to cook and travel around the world. But, wherever I am, I always have Hawaii in my heart, reminding me how “lucky we live Hawaii.”
I have always felt that it was important to take care of my family, friends, neighbors and community, to ensure that we leave this place better than when we started out. I’ve contributed to many causes along the way but feel one of the greatest impacts I have made is through the Hawaii Food & Wine Festival. Chef Alan Wong and I initially started the festival to help our local farmers and to bring awareness to the public about food security. Hawaii imports nearly eighty-five percent of what it consumes, and the goal was to raise awareness through the festival about why “buying local” and supporting farmers is so important. Initially we talked about sustainability and agriculture.
However, if you delve deeper, sustainability, in the greater context of Hawaii, means so much more. It’s about our economy, our educational system, our culture and our people. The festival takes sustainability beyond agriculture by bringing together interests in tourism, education, culture and environmentalism, to ensure that Hawaii maintains a healthy and vibrant economy for future generations. It promotes the Islands as a destination and creates new opportunities to build relationships that grow beyond our shores. It has put Hawaii on the map in a monumental way and is truly a showcase of our state, our people, our culture and our talents.
I am proud to be a founder of the Hawaii Food & Wine Festival and will continue to push for greater sustainability in our islands, to ensure a sustainable future for our children and our children’s children.
Dad’s Teriyaki Short Ribs with Jasmine Rice Pilaf and Neighbors’ Mango Salad
Serves 4 | By Roy Yamaguchi
Dad’s Teriyaki Short Ribs with Jasmine Rice Pilaf and Neighbors’ Mango Salad
Serves 4 | By Roy Yamaguchi
16 bone-in beef short ribs, sliced 1cm thick
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup soy sauce
½ cup finely chopped green onion
¼ cup finely minced garlic
¼ cup finely minced ginger
Mix all ingredients in a mixing bowl until sugar is dissolved. (Makes about 2½ cups of marinade.) Marinate the short ribs for three days in the refrigerator. Optional: Place the short ribs between two wire window screens. Place the screens in a sunny, breezy area outdoors for about 2 to 3 hours to dry them up a little.
Dip the short ribs in more teriyaki marinade and grill over charcoal to desired doneness. The short ribs taste better when the sugar and soy sauce caramelize during grilling over high flames.
Neighbors’ Mango Salad
1 ounce Big Island heart of palm (bottom pieces), cut into 2-inch rounds, sliced paper-thin
1½ ounces “next door neighbor” Hayden mango, sliced in thin strips, about 2½ inches x ½ inch
½ ounce North Shore baby red leaf lettuce, using the smaller leaves (about 1½ to 2 inches), stems trimmed
1 ounce cauliflower florets, shaved paper thin
¼ ounce Waimanalo radish, sliced paper thin
¾ ounce Ululoa Nursery pea tendrils
Combine the ingredients in a bowl. Season with salt, pepper, lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil before serving.
Jasmine Rice Pilaf
1 cup jasmine rice (rinsed and drained)
1½ cups of chicken stock
½ cup plump golden raisins
1 cup vegetable oil
4 tablespoons finely minced garlic
5 tablespoons macadamia nuts, toasted and roughly chopped
In a small non-stick pot, add the rice, chicken stock and raisins. Stir gently so that the raisins are evenly distributed. Heat the pot over medium-high heat, cover and cook for 15-20 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat vegetable oil in a small sauté pan over medium low heat. Once the oil is hot, add minced garlic, reduce heat to low and stir gently. When garlic is golden-brown, strain using a skimmer, drain on two layers of dry paper towels and let cool.
Remove rice pot from the heat, quickly fluff the rice and cover immediately. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Once the rice is cooked tender, add the macadamia nuts and crispy garlic, season to taste with salt and serve immediately.
